The memory of Baba Ann's borscht was good enough to bring me back to Aaltos Garden Cafe just off the lobby of Canad Inn on South 42nd Street. It was rich, ruby red and very tasty when I tried the Sunday buffet a couple of weeks earlier.
The buffet was ready and waiting, and with a couple of friends, I dawdled over coffee before moving seriously into eating. The coffee that comes in red mugs with Seattle's Best lettering is excellent. It's some of the best restaurant coffee I have tasted.
I had for the past few years walked past this restaurant when going through the lobby of Canad Inn and never eaten there. The Sunday brunch was a nice introduction. It costs $15.49, $14.49 for seniors. Those younger than 3 eat free, and children younger than 12 eat for $6.99, including the beverage.
The buffet is extensive and served in a relaxed atmosphere. There was someone around to carve ham. I found my way to the fruit that was fresh and inviting, except for the honeydew melon pieces, which were hard and tasteless. That is a problem I have noticed at other restaurants. I guess it is just plain out of season. We tried the walleye, and it was excellent.
At the end of brunch, we found a nice selection of very tempting desserts. Our server, a UND student, was pleasant and helpful. We went away well-pleased. But on my second visit, the service was not there. This was just before 1 p.m. on a Saturday, and the restaurant was almost deserted. It was 15 minutes before I saw a waitperson. Still, I hoped for service even though it was elusive.
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I decided to try the soup, salad and dessert bar ($8.99). This provided a nice combination on a cold winter day. Once again, the soup was excellent. I chose a wild-rice version and enjoyed every drop of it. The salad bar had the usual offerings of raw vegetables and items such as cottage cheese. It was small enough to stay attractive and inviting. The desserts were appealing and the kind not needing refrigeration.
Aaltos is one of the hotel's three eateries. The others are 'l Bistro and the Tavern United. There also is a Playmakers area for UND events. Robert Park is the hotel's executive chef.
There are artificial greens in planters setting Aaltos off from the lobby of the large hotel. The decor is pleasing with bronze to brown tones in the carpeting. Tables are set with red napkins and red coffee mugs. There is a choice of tables with low, comfortable chairs and booths. The large murals showing early history of Grand Forks add interest.
Maureen Stovall, hotel concierge, arranges for piano music during the Sunday brunch. She said the cafe entertains small groups as well as large groups such as the 600 at a Lutheran youth conference this fall.
Like other restaurants, Aaltos makes an effort to accommodate the growing number of people on gluten-free diets. The chef offers pastas served especially for celiacs. There is a $1 service charge.
Reach Hagerty at mhagerty@gra.midco.net or call (701) 772-1055.
