A cup of split pea soup and a crisp, cool salad -- that was my order when I joined friends at Bonzer's Sandwich Pub before a recent Summer Performing Arts show in downtown's Empire Arts Center across DeMers Avenue.
My order seemed rather run of the mill, and I wasn't expecting anything out of the ordinary. But the soup was excellent -- thick and nicely flavored with cut-up carrots.
And then, there was the salad. You never know what to expect when you order a chef's salad. This one was described as "mini," but it was ample. The lettuce was cool and crisp. The salad was loaded with bits of turkey, ham, Cheddar cheese, tomato, green pepper, onion and croutons. There was a hard-boiled egg sliced on the side. I asked for a raspberry vinaigrette dressing. The only thing I didn't like was the croutons because there were too many and were too large.
The soup was $2.79, and the salad was $6.99.
Bonzer's sandwich menu is an adventure. You find everything from Jon's Special Polish sausage to a Philly Dip. Some people go there regularly for an egg salad sandwich. At Bonzer's, they treat it as an art form and serve it on nine-grain bread -- with a pickle, of course, and chips. Every self-respecting sandwich is served on the proper bread with a crisp dill pickle spear and potato chips.
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It is the fresh, homemade quality of the sandwiches that attracts me to Bonzer's. It had been years since I had a braunschweiger sandwich, but I had one when I made a second visit. It was huge, and the liver sausage was cut thick, enhanced by mustard and onion and served on fresh-tasting rye bread. There was so much that I set half aside to take home. With this sandwich ($4.69), you need a beer or at least a diet cola.
The soups and sandwiches are of high quality because the owners, Jon and Cindy Bonzer, are usually on the job. They do the groundwork in the kitchen and have a staff of about 15 put the orders together. The Bonzers were UND students, both majoring in business, when they met. After their marriage, they launched a business on South Fourth Street in 1983 in the building formerly occupied by the Golden Hour Cafe. They built a good trade with an alley entrance and unique decor of brew mugs that Jon had collected.
Then came the Flood of 1997 and the fire that went with it. The Bonzers were wiped out and reeling. When it came to a family decision, the Bonzers and their son and daughter decided to stay in Grand Forks and start over.
Jon and Cindy are optimistic and enthusiastic about downtown. They like the friendly competition. They are located in the E.J. Lander building that is on the National Register of Historic Places. It is a solid building with original ornate tin ceilings. The Bonzers have added historic touches such as more old brew pieces.
The restaurant has three tables near the front with a small stove for cold winter days. There is a series of booths that provide semiprivacy and one large booth for a group. There are backs on the wooden stool seats at the bar. There is a billiard room and other games. A meeting room attracts various groups.
There are pluses and minuses: Sometimes at night, it seems too dark and too noisy. Some menus are bent and bruised. The women's restroom is spacious and clean.
Reach Hagerty at mhagerty@gra.midco.net or call (701) 772-1055.
