THE EATBEAT: Prompt service, tasty entrees greet diners at Speedway

• Marilyn Hagerty

Marilyn Hagerty

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• THE EATBEAT: About Speedway

From time to time, I take a notion to have lunch or dinner at Speedway, a restaurant that seems to be cleverly hidden on North 42nd Street near UND since opening in 1988.

While most people go there with rib-eye steak on their minds, I often go with the thought of soup for lunch. The restaurant’s head cook, Alice Ripplinger, must be the queen of soup-making.

That opinion was bolstered on recent visits there.

My friend, Sue Huus (SH), and I arrived at 5:15 p.m. on a Saturday night when the place was jammed to overflowing before a UND hockey game versus Minnesota. (A couple of dozen people were waiting to be seated.)

We were pleased with the short time it took to get a table for two and by the good, timely service of the meal.

We were most impressed with our server, who was friendly, calm, cool, collected and helpful.

She took our order at 5:20 p.m. and delivered my cup of cheeseburger chowder at 5:25 p.m. Then, she promptly appeared with our full orders at 5:40 p.m.

Along with my soup, I ordered a special that was described as “Not your momma’s burger.” I also had a cola that came in an enormous version for $2.29.

The menu said there are free refills. I often wonder who is able to drink more than one of those bathtubs full of liquid at one sitting.

The soup was velvety smooth, warm and delightful. The half-pound burger with nachos and cheese ($8.29) was far too much. And I decided I would rather have a traditional smaller version of a burger with my old standbys — mustard and pickles. The two slices of tomato on my plate were nice, but they were not ripe.

SH, was very pleased with her more sensible order — pulled pork and a baked potato. She liked the fact the pork was not drowning in sauce. We both agreed that would be our order on another visit.

Speedway draws people of all ages. Many of them are seeking burgers, ribs, rib-eye and steak at moderate prices.

In three of four reviews I found online, the response was positive. One contributor gave a poor review of the meat.

When it is busy, there is a pleasant kind of roar of voices and activity in Speedway.

The restaurant has a black-and-white speedway theme throughout. It is partitioned off into a series of semiprivate dining areas.

There are pluses and minuses at Speedway:

— The side dishes include baked beans, a wild rice blend, coleslaw, steamed vegetables and a house salad as well as your choice of potatoes.

— There is a senior menu offering chicken, salmon, sirloin or ribs for $7.99.

— The kids menu for ages 12 or younger includes ribs.

— Coffee or tea is 99 cents.

Reach Hagerty at mhagerty@gra.midco.net or call (701) 772-1055.

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