CHEF JEFF — ONE BYTE AT A TIME: Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

A special bacon plays a part in this Italian favorite.

Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

5 ounces pancetta

1 onion, finely chopped

¼ cup dry white wine

1 pound spaghetti

5 large egg yolks

¾ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/3 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

Bring pot of salted water to boil. Cut pancetta into 1/3-inch dice. Heat deep, heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over moderate heat. Cook pancetta, stirring, until fat begins to render. Add onion, cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is golden. Add wine. Boil until reduced by half. Turn off heat. Cook spaghetti in pot of boiling, water until al dente. While pasta is cooking, whisk together egg yolks, grated cheeses, salt, pepper in small bowl. Drain spaghetti in colander, add to pancetta-onion mixture. Turn heat to medium-low. Toss pasta until coated. Remove from heat. Add egg mixture, tossing to combine. Serve immediately.

Yield: Serves 4.

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